Bromeliad Fact Sheet 
Horticulture Services Division
Capitol Gallery
600 Maryland Avenue SW, Suite 3300
Washington, DC  20024

Every time you eat a pineapple, you are eating a bromeliad!  There are approximately 2,877 different species of bromeliads divided into 56 genera.  All bromeliads except for one species are native to the New World tropics and sub tropics.   Their center of distribution is Brazil.  The pineapple was the first bromeliad to be widely cultivated in horticulture.  Christopher Columbus brought the plants to Europe from Guadeloupe in 1493.  The invention of glasshouses or greenhouses in the seventeenth century allowed for cultivation of these cold-sensitive plants and appreciation of their ornamental values. Bromeliads are widely used as landscape plants, houseplants, and in floral arrangements and  interiorscapes.  One frequently sees Aechmeas and Guzmanias in planters in shopping malls! Because of their unique, water holding shapes, bromeliads growing in their native habitats often serve as drinking fountains or swimming pools for small animals living high in the treetops.


GROWTH FORM

Most bromeliads have a compressed stem and leaves in a vase shaped rosette. The rosette of many bromeliads allows the plants to catch and store water in their leaves or “tanks.” 

Aside from the shape of the plant, bromeliads have two distinct growth habits.  There are epiphytic bromeliads and terrestrial bromeliads. Epiphytic bromeliads grow on other plants, but they do not harm their host plants. Spanish moss is an epiphytic bromeliad.  Epiphytic bromeliads use their roots to hold tightly to tree branches.  These bromeliads collect water and debris in their tanks and absorb  nutrients and moisture through their leaves.  Terrestrial bromeliads like Ananas (pineapples), and Cryptanthus grow in the ground just like other normal landscape plants. 

FLOWERS AND BRACTS:  The hard, brightly colored parts of the inflorescence that many people mistake for the flowers are actually colorful bracts, or modified leaves.  The small white, yellow, purple or pink flowers emerge from within the bracts.  The bracts are harder or more papery and usually last for several months after the plant has actually finished flowering.  You can tell if your bromeliad is about to flower, because it will start changing color in the center.  Bromeliads often turn red or pink when flowering to attract the attention of passing animals and insects that aid in pollination.

SELECTING A BROMELIAD 

Bromeliads have adapted to many different growth conditions from shady, humid rainforests to bright, arid deserts.  The following is a list of commonly grown bromeliads. They are used as houseplants in the Northern United States and as landscape plants in the South.
 
Aechmea epiphytic bright light
Billbergia mostly epiphytic bright light
Cryptanthus terrestrial morning light
Dyckia terrestrial bright light
Guzmania mostly epiphytic low light
Neoregelia epiphytic/terrestrial bright light
Tillandsia mostly epiphytic medium to bright
Vriesea pot as terrestrials low to bright

Always consult a reference about the specific species you intend to grow.

TRY THIS AT HOME!

Pineapples are bromeliads.  Try propagating your own pineapple plant!  Purchase a fresh pineapple fruit from the grocery store and cut off the leafy top. Make sure there is no soft fruit left on the stalk.  Remove the bottom third of leaves and let the top dry out for a few days. Plant it in a bromeliad potting medium and water it.  Your pineapple should grow!  It takes about three years to reach a fruiting size.  Pineapple plants are often very spiny, so be careful!

For Further Reading
Duval, Leon. 
The Bromeliads.  Pacifica, California:  Big Bridge Press, 1990.

Padilla, Victoria. 
The Colorful Bromeliads:  Their Infinite Variety.  Los Angeles:  Bromeliad Society, 1981.

The Bromeliad Society, Inc. (BSI). 
Bromeliads, A Cultural Manual. Tulsa, Oklahoma: Bromeliad Society, 1992.

Williams, Barry E. and Ian Hodgson, editors. 
Growing Bromeliads.  Portland:  Timber Press:  1990.

The Bromeliad Society web site:  http://www.bsi.org/

 

GENERAL CULTURE 

The two types of bromeliads require different treatment. 

Epiphytic Bromeliads
Mounting: Mount epiphytic bromeliads on a piece of wood.  Construct a  bromeliad “tree,” by gluing or wiring several bromeliads to a tree branch.  When mounting bromeliads DO NOT USE TREATED WOOD. The copper coating of this wood is deadly to plants.  Use wood that is already decay resistant such as grape, cedar or cork bark.  Fasten the plant to the wood with nontoxic, water proof glue or hot glue.  Spread the glue on the base and side of the plant, leaving part of the base uncovered so that roots can emerge.  Many epiphytic bromeliads can also be potted in a light bromeliad potting mix.

Watering: Fill the centers of tank forming bromeliads with collected rain water or distilled water with a touch of fertilizer added.  Many epiphytic bromeliads do not have tanks, but are covered with gray hairs that absorb water and nutrients from the air.  Spray or soak these with water about once a week.

Terrestrial bromeliads 
Potting: Pot terrestrial bromeliads in a well drained, acidic medium.  Do not use regular potting soil, as it will hold too much water and rot the roots.  Ingredients of a bromeliad potting mix include:  orchid bark, perlite, charcoal, humus, pumice, lava rock, peat, or sphagnum moss. The choice of container depends on the climate in which the plant is growing.  Clay pots dry out more quickly than plastic pots and are better suited to humid environments.  Plastic pots are suited to dry and indoor climates.  Bromeliads do not need very large pots. Plant your large bromeliad in a 4-6 inch pot and stabilize it by placing the pot in which it is planted into a larger pot.  Plant small bromeliads in 2-3 inch pots.

Watering:  Water terrestrial bromeliads in their centers and in the ground.  Amount of water varies by species. Cryptanthus needs to be kept well watered, while many others do not like to have wet feet.

FERTILIZING

Bromeliads are generally not heavy feeders.  Use an acidic, water soluble fertilizer and water the leaves, potting medium and roots of the plant.  Use one quarter to one half strength fertilizer.  Flush bromeliad tanks with water from time to time to wash away accumulated salts from fertilizers.

LIGHT

Bromeliads require a variety of light conditions.  Guzmanias need less sun than most Neoregelias.  It is important to look up the specific light requirements of each species you are growing.  Many bromeliads will grow in less than ideal conditions, but will only thrive and show their true colors when placed in the right light. 

HUMIDITY AND AIR CIRCULATION

Good air circulation is essential for healthy bromeliads.  Humidity is also a factor.  Many bromeliads come from naturally humid areas.  Houses are generally arid in nature, so it is helpful to mist bromeliads grown as houseplants . 

PROPAGATION OF NEW PLANTS

Bromeliads produce pups. After the mother plant blooms, it dies and numerous baby plants or pups grow out from the sides.  These pups eventually sprout roots and can be separated from the mother plant.  Many epiphytic bromeliads can be grown attached to a wire and will form a ball of plants as they reproduce.   Bromeliads that live in arid environments often form colonies to reduce moisture loss.  Bromeliads also produce seed; however, propagation by seed is not the most efficient, nor the easiest way to propagate bromeliads. 
 

Researched  and written by Katie Elzer, 2000.
HTML by Susan J. Pennington, 2000